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D Woods - Horseshoe Canyon

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
By: Daniel Woods, Photos By: Steve Woods

Over the month of December, I decided to break from the norm of going climbing in Hueco Tanks or Bishop and headed down South to an area in Arkansas called the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. From what I had scene in videos and heard from friends, this place is full of high-grade sandstone bouldering resembling Fontainebleau. As to what I had pictured, this was true. The Horseshoe Canyon Ranch has acres of sandstone boulders lying in the valley or at the base of the cliffband, which also holds numerous classic sport climbs. In a 30 minute driving range from Horseshoe Canyon Ranch lies the classic Fountaine Red (Arkansas first established bouldering area), Fred's Cave, Stack Rock Mountain, and Witness the Fitness. All of which are filled with boulders.

There truly is enough rock to keep you occupied for years and all of it is high quality. The boulders offer many features, (sometimes too many features) and the texture of the stone is gritty. Every boulder has at least one line up it whether it is v0 or v15, but the room for development is vast. Only locals, and few visiting climbers such as Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, and Fred Nicole have tapped into this area. As for myself, I was able to squeeze in a few additions and come across some projects that will have me returning.

The nature of the climbing is powerful with big moves on good holds. It felt like gym climbing but outside. I had a couple goals in mind for my 3 and a half week stay; which was to establish new lines and repeat existing test pieces such as Lost in the Hood (v14) FA Dave Graham and Wood Grain Grippin (v14) FA Dave Graham. I started the trip off with keeping it local on the Ranch and climbing classics such as Jeffs Prow (v9), Grand Dragon (v7), Glass Bowl (v10), and bloody knuckles (v11)(Flash). These are all outstanding problems that must be done!

After a couple days of adapting to the area, I decided to try a problem called the Anti Hero put up by Ty Landman, which is a sit start to the classic Flash Gordon. This line instantly caught my eye and I had to have a go at it. The first thing I noticed was how simple the beta was but horrible the holds were. It was a contender for a flash try. I booted up with the Solutions and and found myself past the first two crux moves with the final last move crux awaiting. The sun was shining on my left hand, which was pinching a slopey rail as hard as possible. I hiked my foot up high and statically threw for the final good hold. Sadly I came up just a little bit short and fell hard to the ground. Both stressed and relieved that the flash attempt had been made; I worked out the final move and sent the boulder in a few more attempts. I highly recommend this problem. The next few days brought wet weather and an excuse for a couple rest days.

Once everything Dried up, I decided to attempt Dave Graham's two v14s. The First was Wood Grain Grippin. This problem is located just 5 minutes down the road from Witness the Fitness up on the hillside, which can be scene from the road. It is a unique ship prow like feature, which offers some of the best wood grain sandstone in Arkansas. The moves are very odd with the crux being an awkward sideways under-cling with the right hand that requires twisting your wrist into an uncomfortable position and throwing big across your body to a left hand half pad crimp pinch. From here you do a one-arm campus dyno to a jug for the right hand. I booted up and went to work. After about 30 minutes I had the moves down and started making redpoint tries. I had a couple where I stuck the crux move but messed up on the dyno and before I knew it, my right bicep was destroyed and the darkness had come.

I came back after a rest day and made the 2nd ascent of Wood Grain Grippin in two goes. It felt so good to be fresh and execute each move perfectly. Next was Lost in the Hood, another Dave Graham v14. This problem is located near Fred’s Cave (about 30 minutes from Horseshoe Canyon Ranch) and takes the left side of a cliff band, which can also be scene from the road. It starts on an obvious right hand jug and left hand quarter pad flat edge and does a big throw upwards to a 4 finger half pad sloping crimp. From here you do a couple of v9 moves to the top. It all boils down to sticking the first move which if graded would be around v12 or 13. I made several efforts in the freezing cold conditions and each attempt was closer and closer. I decided to relax for a half hour and rest. Daylight was dwindling down and the skin was on the final layer. I had done all the moves except for the first and new once I stuck it the problem would be completed. I tried a few more times and had a couple almost sticks but either my right hand would slip or my core with give at the last second. I decided to let it be and come back after a rest day.

I later came back for my second day on the problem and things were just not going right. The starting jug was wet and the air temperature was warm and humid, basically, less than perfect conditions. Since it was my final day I tried anyway and came nowhere close. I knew that I would have to leave this one for next trip and that is what I did.

For the remainder of my trip, I put up some new problems on the ranch, at Fred’s cave, and a new area called Stack Rock. On the knuckles wall, there was an obvious line that traversed the entire wall from right to left, which I gave the name, Welcome to Fightclub and proposed v13. It was a total of 15 moves and moved on thin in-cut edges. Next I was shown a problem that was done from a stand at v10 called starburst. This was a one-move wonder that took a flat under-cling with the right and slopey pinch with the left and threw up to a flat ledge then topped out. Once I completed the stand I wanted to add in the sit, which was a 5-move compression line into the stand. This weighed in at around v11 and completed the line. I was then showed a new area called Stack Rock by my friend Justin located an hour from HCR. This area was full of First Ascent potential. We sessioned on a perfect 45-degree wall, which held a stand start, called the Eyes and the Eggs put up my Fred Nicole. An obvious sit was awaiting an ascent, which I put up shortly after doing the stand calling it Trackman (v10). This was perfect compression on slopey cracks for the right and pinches with the left. It had the full package even a hand jam at the top. I then put up line to the left that met up with Trackman at the end. This I called Stackin Paper and gave a grade of (v11). It started out with a couple hard crimp moves to a big throw to a sloper and a crux match leading into the finish of Trackman. Overall I thought this boulder was 4 stars and each of these climbs are worth doing. I am excited to return back to this area and explore the area a little bit more.

Overall, Arkansas is one of the best climbing areas in the U.S. The mystery it has to offer, quality sandstone, and southern hospitality makes for a 4 star area. There is a guidebook that only has Fountaine Red and HCR in it with few boulder problems and mostly routes. It is outdated though and does not contain most of the newer stuff in it. The trails to the main areas are well marked however some of the newer stuff requires a bit of bush whacking to get to. The locals are friendly and will show you around. I will be returning back next December for some revenge on a couple problems and to hopefully establish more lines of my own.

TRAVELING TO ARKANSAS:
Where should I stay?
When I was there, my friend Chad Greedy had rented out the barn that contains two rooms, two bathrooms, and a kitchen. If the barn is full, there are multiple cabins to rent out for 80 dollars. Each cabin holds four people so if you split the cost it is really cheap. These cabins are just as nice as the barn. Also, there is camping above the cabins with designated sites. I do not know how much it is to camp but it can’t be much. There is a main lodge that has cell phone service, WIFI, a hot tub, a pool table, and ping-pong table, which is totally free. The barn, lodge, cabins, and campgrounds are all located within walking distance from one another.

What city should I fly into?
I flew into Fayetteville, AK (XNA) which is located 2.5 hours west of HCR. If you fly I definitely recommend renting a car because I do not believe there is shuttle service to HCR and plus if you want to climb at areas other than HCR, you will need a car.

Where can I eat?
The closest town to HCR is Jasper, AK, which is 8 miles away. Here the main grocery store is connected to a Shell gas station and is your typical store. There is a good restaurant called the Ozark Cafe that offers everything, mostly fried food.

When should I got to HCR?
The best time to go would be from November to beginning of March. When I was there, we had days in the mid 60s and days in the teens. It rained a few days out of the trip but for the most part the weather was beautiful.

Things HCR has to offer:
Other than climbing, there is a gun shack where you can shoot, horseback riding, caving, and plenty of hills to explore.

Things that are a must bring:
Solutions, Exum Ridge approach shoe, sanding board, nail clippers, warm clothes that are durable (some rough bush whacking), laptop and motivation.

Classic Climbs:
Climbs that I thought were 4 stars included Jeffs Prow (v9), Grand Dragon (v7), The Beak (v4), Glass Bowl (V10), Fred’s Roof (v11), Trackman (v10), Anti Hero (v13), Wood Grain Grippin (v14) and Chunk up the Deuce (v13)

Overall rating of Arkansas (HCR) 1-10:
I would give the area a 9 for its beauty, adventurous nature but also relaxing, quality sandstone and king lines.

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