Pump City USA – Deep Creek, Washington
By: Jonathan Siegrist
The northwestern United States is well known as a destination for rock climbing, featuring areas like the incredible Smith Rock, Index, the boulders of Leavenworth and the bold, lengthy routes of the North Cascades. Tucked in between those national destinations are a number of impressive local cliffs that have mostly remained below the radar despite boasting a handful of excellent climbs. Such a list would most definitely include Spokane's very own Deep Creek, a super unique basalt sport climbing area just minutes outside of the city. This little area contains enough rock climbing to keep any visitor satisfied and is certainly worth checking out for at least a couple days if you’re in or around Spokane.
After a short drive west of Spokane, within the boundary of Riverside State Park, you'll find Deep Creek's two primary areas, although there are quite a few additional smaller cliffs. The Main Wall rises straight out of a dry creek bed (killer place to hang out) and contains the highest concentration and variety of routes. The quality here begins at around 5.11a and continues through the grades up to 5.14a. Don't be fooled by the length of these pumpy climbs. Though they are only around 60 feet long, the complete lack of texture found in this specific type of basalt results in a pump factor similar to routes almost twice the size at the Red River Gorge. Don't miss the classic Belly Rubber 5.12b, the “entry level” climb Roach 5.11a, Mental Warfare 5.12d, the continuous Russian Arete 5.13b and the mega pumpy Quiver 5.13. 
Take a ten-minute walk downstream to find The Pit, exhibiting some of Washington's most difficult and consistent climbs. This wall stands 80 feet tall and delivers a nauseating amount of lactic acid. A few 5.11's exist, but the main attractions start at around 5.13b. My favorites at The Pit include the savagely bouldery Problem Child 5.14c, the relentlessly difficult Motley Crux 5.14a and the best 5.11 at Deep Creek, Pit Lizard.
What Deep Creek lacks in aesthetics, it makes up for in quality of movement. Pinches, small edges and jugs are mostly what you'll find within the blocky basalt. Remember to bring your core and a soft shoe given the complete lack of textured footholds. I used the La Sportiva Solution and found them to be perfect on this type of terrain. It may take some getting used to, but Deep Creek is a power endurance climber’s dream and is guaranteed to swell your forearms and induce an ear-to-ear smile.
Make sure to pick up a copy of Inland Northwest Rockclimbs by Marty Bland for complete information on this area as well as a number of other over-looked Eastern Washington gems.
