Red River Gorge Beta
By: Jonathan Siegrist
Photos: Andrew Burr
I'm not easily persuaded to jump in the car for 19 hours, especially when it means driving through the entire state of Kansas. With such a plethora of great stone in the western United States, something extraordinary would have to exist in the east to lure me that far away from the mountains. Well, after being inundated with rumors about high quality, challenging routes, I finally made my first trip to the Red River Gorge in October of 2009. It did not take more than 30 minutes after I arrived to realize that it was well worth the drive.
The Red has put Kentucky on the map as being one of the premier single pitch sport and traditional climbing destinations in the country. Nestled in Daniel Boone National Forest, the landscape at the Red is spectacular, especially in the late fall. Dense forests consisting of a wide variety of trees cover rolling hills in every direction. Between these hills is a massive system of water carved sandstone canyons that feature incredible cliffs that continue for miles.
The cliffs at the Red are beautiful and the climbing is exceptional. Across the entire range of grades and styles that I sampled, I nearly always lowered to the ground with a smile on my face. A large variety of climbing styles can be found at the Red, beyond the token jug-hauling-pump-fests that have made such areas as the Madness Cave and the Undertow Wall popular. Cliffs like the Military Wall and the Sanctuary offer the more technically minded climber a much desired challenge. 
I spent a lot of my time at the Red with fellow LaSportiva athletes Lauren Lee and Paige Claassen. Lauren lured me into some incredible single pitch trad climbs like the beautiful 'Rebar' (5.11a) and Paige pushed some long days in the giant Motherlode on classic endurance routes like 'Flour Power' (5.13b) and 'Tuna Town' (5.12d). It is amazing that two such styles can be found within a short drive of one another. It is quite easy to keep everyone in the party happy and challenged at the Red due to the high route density and grade variety at most of the cliffs.
I was so overwhelmed with my first few days at the Red that I actively tried not to peer through the guide book; there are simply too many exciting hard climbs to count. By the end of my 16 days in the Red, I had a chance to sample most of the routes I was psyched on, and excitingly, I also sent everything I aspired to climb- most notably 'Lucifer' (5.14c), 'Southern Smoke' (5.14c), '50 Words for Pump' (5.14c) and 'Thanatopsis' (5.14b). While I did leave extremely stoked and satisfied with my first trip to the Red, it will surely not be my last.
Some F.A.Q.s on the Red:
Where should I fly into?
Lexington is the closest option at about 1 hour from the Gorge, but Louisville and Cincinnati are both good options as well. However, know that having a car is a must at the Red, so depending on your budget it may be wiser to drive.
Where do I stay?
The popular and social options are Miguels Pizza (camping) and Lago Lindas (also camping with options for cabins) . But if you desire a roof over your head, cabins and a few private houses for rent do exist- ask around or search the web.
Where do I eat?
Miguels has exceptional pizza and other pub-food type options. Close to the Red, this is basically your only option unless you consider gas station hot-dogs food. It is best to come prepared to cook and the closest grocery stores are in Beattyville (15 min south) or (my choice for a greater selection) Stanton (20 min north west).
Must do routes?
Honestly, there are too many to list. But here are a couple IMO: 'Rebar' (5.11a-trad), 'Fuzzy Undercling' (5.11b), 'Buddha Hole' (5.11d), 'Check your grip' (5.12a), '8-Ball' (5.12d), 'The Force' (5.13a), 'Golden Boy' (5.13b), 'Black Gold' (5.13c), 'Ultra Perm' (5.13d) and 'Transworld Depravity' (5.14a)... I could go on and on..
Shoe Choice?
Given the steep angles and often aggressive heel hooking, I found myself choosing the LaSportiva Solution for almost every climb. It perfectly suited my needs in the Red.
Must have gear?
A 70m rope is a must if you aspire to climb the huge routes at the Red. A tarp for gear and ropes is nice to have because of the fine dirt that you will come to know intimately while climbing at the Red. Rain jacket is key and a stick-clip is required at nearly every cliff. Lastly, Ray Ellington's 2nd Edition of Red River Gorge Rock Climbs is the must have guide for the area.
Overall rating from 1-10?
The Red is a 10. It is perhaps the best, most extensive sport climbing area in the United States and much more potential exists. It offers great traditional options as well, and you will find routes at all grade ranges that are aesthetic and enjoyable. Go there.
