Hueco Tanks, Texas, USA
By Jamie Chong
We've all heard about the bouldering at Hueco. Crimpy, powerful, and steep describe this area well, but some of the best jug-haul V2s can be also be found here. There are thousands of problems from V0 to V15, hundreds boasting five stars.
Access issues and park fees have turned people off of Hueco, but really the hassles and the money are well worth it. Planning ahead and being organized is key. Those who show up during peak season without booking park reservations ahead of time will find it hard to even get into the park.
There are four major climbing areas in the State Park: North Mountain, East Mountain, East Spur and West Mountain. A spot on either a commerical tour or a volunteer tour is required to gain access to East or West Mountain or East Spur, but North Mountain is totally open, which is great because it has dozens of high quality boulder problems. Commercial tours cost $20 per person and can be booked through the Hueco Rock Ranch. Volunteer tours are free, but a $4 state park pass is required. Book these by calling the Hueco Tanks Historic Site office.
Here are some great photos of Hueco bouldering. Consider these fantastic North Mountain problems on your next road trip! Click the link below to see more from Jamie Chong's website.
1. The Gymnasium Lots and lots and lots of huecos. This area is great to warm up in.
2. Ghetto Simulator, V2 Even the strongest climbers should make the journey to this problem, it's so classic. There's a cruxy big move at the bottom and a redpoint crux at the top.
3. Sign of the Cross, V3 A nice stand start problem with a good landing. Check out the cross hold!
4. See Spot Run, V6 Bring lots of pads and a few spotters before you try this one. Follow perfect crimps to a thrilling topout.
5. Daily Dick Dose, V6/7 The name of this problem may or may not sound appealing to you, but no matter what, it's still a Dose of fun.
6. Babyface, V7 Babyface was one of the first hard problems put up in Hueco. You don't want to leave the park without trying this problem.
7. Loaded With Power, V10 Powerful and crimpy, the epitome of Hueco.
8. Power of Silence, V10 The movement is subtle on this problem - a perfect puzzle of holds.
Watch the video!
