Gisely Ferraz - Stuff You Should Know about Climbing in the Creek
Ten facts about the Creek, as I reflect on another upcoming season.
Indian Creek is a magical place with a landscape characterized by beautiful red sandstone formations in the northern portion of Bears Ears National Monument and for many of us feels like home. The expansive cliff lines provide countless splitter cracks, of all sizes, throughout. Each one calling to be climbed.
This climbing oasis in the Utah desert is one of the most impressive and vast climbing areas in the US and perhaps the world. As a climber, I have traveled extensively to explore spectacular climbs, but I have not found a place that rivals the Creek. Liming, China comes close perhaps, as the two share similar rock formations and climbing styles. However, for me, Indian Creek reigns supreme as a world-class climbing destination, perhaps in a class of its own.
Like many people, I had limited ‘pure’ crack climbing experience prior to coming to the Creek. It was here that I started to learn the basics. What began as a climbing trip quickly evolved into a lifestyle. I fell in love with the climbing here, and now call this land my home. For the past two years, I have been working with the community here by teaching crack climbing techniques, establishing routes, and educating future generations. I have learned so much during this time, here are 10 interesting facts to share with fellow Creek freaks and future ones. So, lipstick on, rack up, check my knot, and here I go!
FACT 1: The sandstone, called Windgate, was deposited in the Early Jurassic period approximately 200 million years ago. The precious routes we climb can be so fragile after the rain should NOT be climbed when wet. Doing so can result in damage to and degradation of the routes.
FACT 2: The land maintains a history of multiple indigenous cultures with cliff-dwellings, a large collection of petroglyphs, and countless archeological sites, representing a fragile and unique history from our ancestors. On rest days I enjoy going for hikes to explore and admire all the antiquities left from previous generations. The protection and preservation of this invaluable cultural resource should be at the forefront of our minds when we are guests in this landscape.
FACT 3: A place of Freedom - or pretty close to it. As soon as you lose cell phone service you become more connected with the place and people and are able to focus on the moment that surrounds you. I find the desert to be a place where you can find peace by simply admiring the landscapes and slowing the pace of everyday life. The lack of cell phone service is an opportunity to take a break from the modern addiction to technology. When was the last time you stepped away from your phone and worries? The sunny days and cold nights make the Creek the perfect place for unplugging and immersing yourself in climbing.
FACT 4: The grit of the sandstone will burn or rash your skin. The climbing is physical and technique-intensive. Experienced climbers float up routes, swimming on hand jams in the most magnificent scenery of the west. For me, one of the most amazing feelings is flowing up splitter cracks, but watch out for your skin.
FACT 5: Something for everyone - there may be no other place in the world with the variety of crack sizes, from tight finger cracks to offwidths. The routes are very size dependent and can offer a different experience for everyone. Wide cracks, called offwidths, are one of my favorite crack sizes. The Creek offers a lifetime of opportunity for whatever splitter size fills your dreams at night. Be warned - it can be quite addicting, I have certainly succumbed to the addiction!
FACT 6: Bring a beginner’s mind. Creek climbing is unique and may be different from the climbing you’re used to. It is best to leave the ego at home and embrace the opportunity to learn new skills. Being a top-rope hero can be a lot of fun. There is a strong culture of setting up ropes and sharing the climbing so that people can experience new types of climbing and different routes and get stronger whilst doing so.. Yes, enjoy those laps! This is a great way to learn, work on the required technique for different crack sizes and climb laps all day with your friends. If you want to learn how to crack-climb, this is the place to be.
FACT 7: The community here is open and welcoming. Here, it is common to climb in groups, share experiences, meet new friends, camp together, and dance by the fire into the night. The most important thing is that we share love for this place, and maybe some gear. Who has 10 #1s on your personal rack? So, yes, it’s ok to be friendly and ask for that gear you need for your project, we are all stoked for you to send it.
FACT 8: The first route established in Indian Creek was The North Six Shooter. The pioneers were chasing towers. Most of the routes in the Creek are single pitches, but there are some masterpiece routes that allow you to reach the rim of Indian Creek. So, don’t limit yourself to climbing only close to the ground. Go for a long adventure!
FACT 9: The desert is fragile and sensitive and care must be given to go climb with friends while minimizing the impact. The desert has unique plants and cryptobiotic soils, which are slow-growing and easily destroyed by feet, cars, or crashpads. Those soils must remain intact. DON’T BUST THE CRUST! It is also interesting to note that the dry desert soil also lacks the bacteria required to break down feces. When you bury it, it just shrivels up and sits there… and sits there for years. Keep that in mind. Use a wag bag and pack it out.
FACT 10: We are impermanent. The people and the heroes come and go but the Creek will remain. The best we can do is leave the place better than we found it. Learn about the history of the land, climbing ethics, and how best to respect the place, animals, and the people…
ON AN IMPORTANT NOTE- to help minimize impact, and access issues, the Access Fund has a Climber Steward program in Indian Creek providing coffee and information for visiting climbers to help spread awareness about how to minimize our impact.
These wild places are in our hands to share from generation to generation, so let’s do our part to protect it, and also send our projects! See you in the Creek for next season!
PRO TIP- I asked La Sportiva Athlete Brittany Goris, an amazing climber that has been pushing the grades in trad climbing, what her favorite climbing shoes for the Creek are. We both have the same opinion and recommend TC Pros. For thin cracks (Brittany’s specialty), her favorite shoe is the Cobra Eco.
Photos Courtesy of Eliseu Frechou (@eliseufrechou)
