Three Weeks at the Head

It’s easy for me to fall into a routine with my climbing – rotating through the same areas, seeking out the next project and starting down the path of learning the intricacies of that project until it feels like an old friend – the changing season mandating a migration of climbers to a different zone, or maybe back into the gym. Since I have very little routine in my “at home” life, hopping onto this scaler merry-go-round can be nice, as I’ll reliably see friendly faces in places I like being, but I’ve recently been wanting more novelty and adventure in my climbing. While some may think that bouldering is inherently the wrong discipline for those seeking adventure, I’ve been leaning into the idea that adventure is a mindset that can be found not just in places that are perilous or uncharted.

Keenan and I bumped into our friend Simon Moore in Bishop last winter, and he planted the seed for a trip to Fairhead, a cliff in his hometown of Ballycastle, Northern Ireland. He spoke of undone projects by the sea, good rock that dries quickly, and most importantly, good temps throughout the summer! I’ll admit, I was skeptical. If Fairhead was a place for high quality, summer bouldering, then why hadn’t I heard of it? And doesn’t it rain year round in Northern Ireland? Putting aside any doubts, Keenan and I booked a trip, and at the start of September, we boarded a plane to Dublin and then drove a couple hours north through deep green farmland to Ballycastle. 

Fairhead is a striking place. Miles of stark cliff side made of columnar dolerite rock give way to a steep talus hill side that funnels down to the ocean. The wind is often whipping around the headland and squalls come on quickly, often forcing boulderers to scramble for cover and pull the pads under overhangs. Pods of dolphins periodically pass by and put on a show for the gawking climbers on land. It’s one of the only places I’ve bouldered that’s truly at sea level, but I found it to be not unlike bouldering in alpine talus fields in Colorado, where weather is highly localized, the rock dries in 20 minutes, and my mantra is always to just get out there and see what happens

Evenings at Fairhead

PC: Katie Lamb

From left to right: Si, Dillon, Katie, and Aidan take a lunch break

PC: Keenan Takahashi

We stayed in a house on a farm above the cliff, with the three Brits we’d organized the trip with – Dan Varian, Sam Lawson, and Aidan Roberts – who had taken the ferry over to Northern Ireland. We quickly became comfortable and got along very well, even though Keenan had previously only met Aidan, and I hadn’t met any of them. We fell into a routine, going out basically every day and setting up under whatever boulder looked inspiring to us (highlights include Gentleman’s Arete (8B/V13), Boombastic (7C+/V10), Spindle (8A/V11), Glenn Ross (8A+/V12), and some very sandbagged “moderates” that took some serious puzzling through). Then, in the latter half of the day, moving onto a project (both undone projects and established problems that took multiple days of effort). We spent three weeks working away in this fashion – Dan and Sam stayed for one week, Aidan for most of the trip, and Keenan and I closed it out. In the end, I felt very satisfied with my work as well as the group dynamics and efforts of the team as a whole

Katie and Dan hiking toward the headland

PC: Keenan Takahashi

Back at the farm, post-dinner tea and crumble

PC: Keenan Takahashi

Katie on Gentleman’s Arete (8B/V13)

PC: Simon Moore

Any trip that I get out every day, hike a lot, and end up feeling stronger than when I came is a good one and a sure indicator of world class climbing. But it’s also a reflection of the cohesion of the group. It can be exhausting to spend all of one’s time with the same set of people in a foreign place, and it takes a good group that is able to support each other and roll with the punches, even when physically exhausted, to be able to pull off a trip of this nature. It certainly helped that we were guided by some friendly locals – Simon Moore, Jackie Moore, and Dillon McLaughlin – who I can’t thank enough for their hospitality and enthusiasm in showing us their local area. Dillon came out to the boulders with us every day and brought both youthful energy as well as sage advice about beta to try, as well as insight into the various whims of Fairhead conditions.

Aidan, Keenan, and Dillon wrap up an evening session on Bob Ross (8B+/V14)

PC: Katie Lamb

Looking back, it was a great trip from the climbing perspective. I climbed well and felt fulfilled by the resultant tick list of boulders. But mainly, I did find the sense of adventure I’d been craving in my climbing. For me, climbing is just as much about the people as it is about my own personal pursuits, which is easy to lose sight of after climbing for about 20 years. It’s pretty special to go to a new country and have a great time living with a group of people I’d never met before. But it’s particularly unique to travel somewhere and be welcomed by locals who want me to love and respect a place as much as they do, even when that place is a bit of a well kept secret. I think that’s the sign of an area that is well cared for and something I want to strive for in my own progression through climbing.

Keenan challenging the local pool shark

PC: Katie Lamb

Fairhead is not vacation bouldering in a conventional sense – the weather can be fickle, the talus is tiring to navigate, and the grades are sandbagged. However it is extremely beautiful, the climbing is really high quality and thought-provoking, and I felt pretty joyful hopping around the talus next to the ocean as dolphins swam by. Plus, there’s a good bakery in town (Ursa Minor), which is all I can ask for from a vacation. Back at home a month later, I think I’ve been able to carry some fresh perspective from my trip into my climbing in California this fall. Even though I’m climbing in places that feel familiar, I’ve been trying to go out and be creative with my climbing and be patient when things go wrong, as if I’m in a new place. Perhaps above all, the trip was a reminder that spending time with friends and making new ones can make climbing way more fun, and is a crucial ingredient for fueling my own intrinsic motivation and progression in climbing. 

Katie enjoying a rest day at Murlough Beach

PC: Keenan Takahashi

Watch the Wedge video “Summit Club Ep. 1” Exploring Northern Ireland's Best Bouldering • Summit Club Ep.1