Michael Vaill
DISCIPLINE:
ABOUT ME:
Shortly after moving to California for graduate school I discovered the granite wonderland of the Sierra Nevada. Growing up in the flat lands of Georgia I had no idea that walls like those in Yosemite or peaks like those in the High Sierra existed. From the first time I laid eyes on these vertical landscapes I felt an indescribable urge to move through them. It is this urge, and a good dose of John Muir's writing, which still motivates my climbing today. Every time my hands touch granite, my feet dance across talus, or my eyes catch the alpenglow, my climbing dream comes true. I've been using Sportiva products from day 1 and it's an honor to be a part of the team.
PROUDEST ACCOMPLISHMENTS:
July 2021 | Completed PhD in Biomedical Sciences
October 2024 | Yosemite Triple Crown FKT
October 2024 | FA of the Yosemite Quad
June 2025 | El Cap Triple (First linkup of Salathe/Lurking Fear/Nose sub 24h without BASE)
August 2025 | 2nd ascent of the Goliath Traverse
Q+A:
Who is your favorite climbing partner?
Tanner Wanish has been my go-to climbing partner for all my biggest objectives. When we find ourselves in different parts of the world we are constantly texting each other and dreaming up the next big objective. From 5.9 multi-pitches years ago, to our first NIAD, to the Yosemite triple and quad, and the Goliath Traverse, we feel unstoppable when we step off together. As a team we embody the concept that the whole is greater than the sum of the parts.
What is your go to hype song?
From redpoint burns to 3am linkup low points, "Tondo" by Disclosure always gets my mind where it needs to be.
What was the first La Sportiva product you tried?
The venerable Mythos! When I first learned to climb, my trad-dad mentors taught me to place hexes and wear mythos. Nowadays you're more likely to find me placing cams and wearing TC Pros.
Which charity/advocacy organizations do you support or belong to?
Yosemite Climbing Association, American Alpine Club, Southern Utah Climbers Alliance.
APE INDEX:
6' tall +2" ape index
Bio and banner photos: © Cory Rich